Roadmap inspiring cultural institutions: Switch off, retreat and reconnect at Ankasa’s nature sanctuary for some self-love

The Ankasa Conservation Area is located in southwestern Ghana, a little over 350 kilometres west of the capital Accra. It is near the border with Côte d’Ivoire and encompasses the Nini Suhien National Park to the north and the Ankasa Forest Reserve to the south. 

Covering some 509km², this protected area falls within an ancient rainforest with the most biodiversity in the country. It represents the only wet evergreen protected area in an almost unspoiled state, home to over 800 plant species, including some endemic ones like the recently discovered Psychotria.

The forest still holds viable populations of large and charismatic mammals, such as the Forest Elephant, bongo, leopard and yellow-Backed Duiker.

There are six confirmed and 3 unconfirmed primate species, including the Western Chimpanzee and 3 rare or endangered subspecies endemic to Côte d’Ivoire and Ghana: the Roloway Diana Monkey, the Geoffroy’s Pied Colobus and the White-naped Sooty Mangabey. By far the most exciting species found here that is a big draw would be the impressive bird population of over 200 types, the majority of them being truly forest dependant. There are several rare birds endemic to the Upper Guinea Forest here, including the White-breasted Guinea Fowl, Yellow-throated Olive Greenbul and Rufous-winged Illadopsis. 

An extensive network of small streams, together with 3 main rivers found here in of the protected area similarly supports a variety of reptiles, including the Broad-fronted Crocodile. Ankasa is a nature lover’s haven, but has been struggling to attract numbers. This is owing to its distance from captive audiences and a lack or access to suitable accommodation and other touristry facilities.  

Recently, however, a new retreat lodging opened nearby, bringing a flicker of hope for increased tourism activity. Offering decent rooms, the presence of the Ankasa Reserve Lodge is about to change everything as it brings a fresh vista packed with a lot of education and recreation for all. PaJohn Dadson spent a couple of nights there, and reports that the forest is a great source of healing.

Partnering with Ashanti African Tours to offer touristry services, including adrenaline therapy visits of the nearby Ankasa Forest Reserve on its trails for hiking and cycling, traffic to the site from the source market of Accra has been greatly hampered by the ongoing roadworks on the route leading out to the Western Region.

For the athletically inclined, this is a fantastic place to explore. Now, for those who would rather take it easy, a “forest bathing” session at a bamboo colony within the woods works wonders on the heart, even your whole being.

Aptly called the “Bamboo Cathedral”,

all you need to do is to be present here.

It has the most reverential aura with

such a balming effect that makes you

become aware of yourself. And, especially when you take your shoes off and step barefoot on the fallen leaves from the bamboo trees, connecting to mother earth, the deafening noise of silence at this “Bamboo Cathedral” in the deep of this thick tropical rainforest, will bring you such peace as you have never known.

Your heart resets, and even if you are not

spiritual, your religiousness will spike here,

It is for you to believe in, and

reassure yourself that in spite of life’s

challenges, you are reconnecting to forge

ahead!

Getting there can be tricky if you

have to drive. It’s 3 hours from Takoradi

going toward the Elubo border. Driving

back after purging here can be painful.

You may fly to Takoradi, and get picked

up from the airport if you arrange with

Ashanti African Tours. When you get

settled, Forster, the lead guide here who showed me around, or another equally qualified one, will be on hand to chaperone you through all the activities you choose to partake in, including night

time mammal or bird spotting using high

density torchlights thrown onto the trees

in the thick of the night to spot. Here,

even 7pm is thick of the night! Very

knowledgeable about birds, Forster is

quite phenomenal with the forest.

And with a kitchen that serves a good

variety of continental and local dishes,

you will surely be at home.

A “Bamboo Cathedral”, numerous

streams, 400 of the country’s

758 bird species, 43 varieties

of mammals, including 10 primates

can all be found in this centuries-old rainforest which also hosts the

Ankasa River. And we are fortunate to

have this right here in Ghana in the

Jomoro District in the Western Region, near Elubo. Given reserve status in 1976, and thus one of the many tourist destinations in Ghana under the Wildlife Commission, it is  one of those tourist attractions that everyone needs to spend, at least, two days here if just to experience nature’s hypnotising silence.

Nodding off while sitting on the deck of my room, absorbing the greenery facing me, the recurring thing that is happening to me right now is the rhythmic chirping of the birds in the deep and the hypnosis resulting from looking at the sheer intensity of the hues of this lush forest I’m gazing.

The ambiance here is simply stunning. You will love it here, even if you are not much of a nature lover. particularly these days when those dwelling in fast-paced cities need to slow down, venture out here and have this place inevitably slow you down. It’s like changing to second gear from fourth when the highway has reached a slight incline. Something, as human, your heart, maybe even your whole body, will thank you for.

Located right on the fringe near the entrance to the 509km^2-bordered conservation area, up on a bit of an incline, the Ankasa Reserve Lodge sits as a refreshing retreat for modern living.

Deliberately off-grid — telephony and Internet network is accessible only about 10-minute drive away, one may catch up once or twice a day, replying to emails or attending to other urgent corporate issues online, if one desperately needs to.

Here, you switch off and indulge in pampering yourself with some self-love, savouring sleep and rest in one of the lodge’s individually appointed chalets specked with the most basic of amenities

in a luxe setting. Each has a king sized bed – or separated to make a twin statement – with fluffy pillows dressed in white cotton linen. Facing a wide wood and glass accordion door which frames

a private picture of the nearby forest, the mattress is firm but with the softest quilt

and cosy pillows.

Beautiful structures, built like a glamorous safari camp tent lodging, but in raffi a cladded concrete and polished solid wood in excellent joinery; the rooms are fitted with a mini fridge, standard wardrobe and desk, and are all air-conditioned along with a ceiling fan for smelting afternoons and when you don’t want to chill up.

The rooms are definitely cosy, with walls, treated to give a smooth effect. This effect is also in the rather large size bathroom which, set with a chair, is so reminiscent of a Hemingway novel.

Are you planning an excursion to nearby Nzulezu or a beach day-out at Axim or Ankobra, bringing a great boom in domestic tourism? This is one domestic vacation that you must add to your bucket list.

Alternatively, if you want an exclusively curated itinerary to enjoy a bush picnic experience here, contact Bentsifi on 0244697046.

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